Productive weekend

It’s been a very productive weekend! Two photo shoots for Popmani.se and I’m so looking forward to the day I can show you the result.
They are both autumn- fashion with a lot of Swedish design, such as Army of Me, Odeur, Hope, Maria Nilsdotter.

Saturday:
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Sunday:
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Master of the elements; the world of Rick Owens at Selfridges

I got even more excited about my London- visit next week when I realized that’s the time Selfridges are celebrating 20 years since the inception of the label and the opening of ” The world of Rick Owens ” project store.
It is celebrated by giving Owens four display windows with a theme chosen by the master himself; Oscar Wilde’s Salomé and a giant statue of Owens, holding something that looks like a Olympic torch. You can find several objects in limited edition inside and I am really looking forward to have a look at it all- even if the price tag will be way over my budget.

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Army of Me

I have over and over before complained about the avant garde scene here in Sweden/Stockholm- how it doesn’t really exists. But I guess I have to re-frase myself and just say; it’s a little bit harder to find, and I’m glad to present to you; Army of Me. A Swedish fashion label founded in 2008 by Daniel Wahlberg and Richard Sjöblom. When I saw their show the other day during Stockholm Fashion Week I came to think about what they say about their design; the idea is simple- combining classic designs from the west with avant garde fashion from the east. I think their S/S 15 is an excellent example of just that.

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Rick Owens.

I’ve been thinking about this text for quite some time now. How I in the most respectful way would introduce you to one of the most important people and designers. How I could make you understand his greatness. I came to the conclusion that the best way would actually be to just show you pictures. Not only is he making clothes.

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Nico Uytterhaegen

I want to be a fashion architect and I look for the right forms, proportions and materials—decoration elements and color are not that important for me- Nico Uytterhaegen.
Nico is a Belgian designer, famous for his leather bags and perfumes. He was noticed in Paris Fashion Week 2005 and in 2011 he presented his perfume collection Nononsense. It consisted of 8 perfumes and in 2012 he added another two. The Nononsense collection reflects the Middle Age and every bottle comes in a handmade leather pouches.
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None of the senses are made specifically for a man nor specifically for a woman. For the SS13 collection another two perfumes were created,  Unysekt Vyyr and Unysekt Area- inspired on the Greek Mythology.

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The collections are always a balance between history and the future.
“The conflict between tradition and innovation creates an interesting paradox for my avant-garde. The most enjoyable part of designing is the initial development process. This is the part that does not seem like work as it just comes naturally. It’s a constant search for new ideas and what is quite interesting is that even when you go back to the same source, you always find something new… It’s a constant play with new forms, proportions and details. Construction and deconstruction, symmetric and asymmetric forms are the guiding line.”  ( text taken from his Facebook- page ).

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You can also find shoes for both man and women and there’s also some goth inspired jewelry. These shoes are from the SS13 collection.

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Odeur; Mercedes- Benz Fashion Week Berlin

Odeur is a Swedish brand, founded in 2006 as a brand experiment but it worked out so well that the founder, Petter Hollström, decided to continue. In the beginning it was mainly t-shirts but they now design everything from jeans to accessories and shoes and they sell in more than 20 countries.
During Berlin Fashion Week  they were showing their SS15 collection- Zenith, a much appreciated show and it was called one of the best male fashion shows. To sum it up it’s a collection with classical tailoring and sophisticated white and black minimalism with an avant garde sport feeling.

Barbara i Gongini- when garments become art

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Cunnington & Sanderson

It’s the 2009 collection so fashion wise it’s kind of ” old “, but wooow. Beauty. The designers are Matthew Cunnington and John Sanderson. Cunnington&Sanderson. Love everything about it. The silhouettes. The draping. The fabrics. It’s avant garde as its best.

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Avant garde

Rick Owens. Gareth Pugh. Barbara í Gongini. Damir Doma. Mugler. V Ave Shoe Repair. Comme des Garçons.
If you look up the word avant garde, Wikipedia will give you this explanation; the avant garde are people or works that are experimental or innovative, particularly with respect to art, culture and politics. The avant garde pushes boundaries of what is accepted as the norm or status quo, primarily in the cultural realm.

I think a lot of people look at it as something very dark and mysterious, sometimes even weird. In my eyes it’s intriguing and innovating and the people within it as very strong minded individuals.
I once did a photo shoot with a avant garde store in London and I took the opportunity to ask the manager/buyer about his point of view. In my eyes he’s spot on and I couldn’t put it an any other way.

¨ I see avante garde, or the designers that design within it as people who create their own design universe. They may use cultural, musical, art even social  references, but the outcome is still very much their own. They do not follow trends and change style each season, they remain true to their vision and experimentation. That could be one word to describe avante-garde. Experimentation with concept, forms, fabrics, silhouettes, pushing the boundaries. ¨

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Barbara ì Gongini

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Barbara í Gongini

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Gareth Pugh